Frequently Asked Questions
Browse our FAQs for more information on our engines from general inquiries, shipping, engine specifications, and more.
- Exhaust headers
- Water pump
- Fuel pump
- Pulleys & belts
- Starter motor
- All required fluids
Will I Have To Pay An Additional Core Charge?
Unlike others who charge as much as $1000 for a core, at Canadian Crate Engines we include the core charge with every performance engine build.
Just think of the hassle of trying to package up your greasy old engine, arrange for return shipping, paying shipping costs, then waiting for them to process your core in order to get a core credit (IF they determine your core is suitable.)
Maybe you don’t even have a core to send back.
We want your engine buying experience to be smooth and hassle free.
You’ve got more important things to worry about and it’s much better to have a fixed cost for your crate motor.
Are There Other Types Of Engine Packages Available?
We are constantly working on different packages that perform as flawlessly as our current combinations.
We offer multiple small block Chevrolet and Ford combinations. If you are looking for something that you do not see, please give us a call and we’ll be happy to learn your needs and share our specialized knowledge and guide you to the most suitable crate engine for your individual needs.
How Long Will It Take To Get My Engine After I Make My Deposit?
We take pride in getting your engine completed in a timely manner, but our first priority is making sure your engine is built with precision and quality.
Depending on stock, the season and any chosen customizations, it will take between 2-6 weeks to complete and ship your engine build.
Orders are processed and shipped based on the date you place your order.
Do Your Engines Use Roller Camshafts Or Flat Tappet?
We choose roller camshafts for all of our crate engine packages for a reason.
Not all cams are not created equal, and here is why:
The shape of the traditional “flat tappet” camshaft lobe is designed in a way to prevent the flat tappet lifter from “digging” into the cam itself (see diagram).
Flat tappet camshaft manufacturers are forced to limit the lift and duration resulting in an undesirable power curve compared to a roller design which avoids this limitation.
When using a roller camshaft you never have to worry about the lifter digging into the cam because it has an efficient wheel on the bottom of it, so you can alter the shape or “profile” of the cam lobe resulting in more efficient power across the entire RPM range.
This means a better performing and longer lasting engine for you to enjoy.
What Accessories Will I Need to Get My Long Block Crate Engine Running?
Because your engine will arrive as a complete long block assembly, it will not include several external components you’ll need to either already have, or purchase to complete your installation and get you on the road.
For example the same exhaust headers used on a 1952 Chevy pickup may not fit if the engine is being installed in a 1969 Camaro. For this reason we build our crate engines so you can get parts specific to your application.
The good news is, we can supply you with all of the necessary parts you’ll need to get your motor installed and running.
Here is the required parts list:
For all of the required parts listed above, Canadian Crate Engines has recommended packages and options from $599.
All we need at the time of your order is the vehicle make, model and year. With that we can include everything you’ll need to get your engine installed and running quickly and hassle-free.
Avoid the hassle of running back and forth to auto parts stores and worrying about fitment issues. We’re here to help you make sure you get the right parts and can handle all those important details for you.
Your engine your way
There many ways to customize the look of your engine. The “tin” valve covers, oil pan, timing cover and air cleaner are a great way to individualize the look of your new engine.
Have an old gasser or hot rod? Maybe a classic finned valve cover and air cleaner would suit you desired look. If you have a mean 60’s muscle car then maybe some fabricated aluminum race style valve covers or carbon fibre works for you. We have a variety of accessories and packages available that are compatible with your crate engine.
Give us a call to talk about you specific needs, wants and desires.
What Color Options Are Available For My Engine?
There are multiple color options for your engine package.
Engine block paint as well as valve covers, air cleaners, and plug wire choice.
We have a variety of block paint like Chevy orange, racing red, light and dark blue, yellow, and of course black. When you order we will ask you what block color you want.
You can see different engine accessories in different colors by clicking to the accessories page.
What Type Of Gas Will I Need To Run In My Engine?
All base Canadian Crate Engines builds are designed to perform to spec on pump gas ranging from 89-94 octane.
The octane rating you will need to use will depend on what engine package you choose and is listed in every package description.
What Side Will The Dipstick Be On?
Almost all of our engines use late style engine blocks with a passenger side dipstick and a 1-Piece rear main seal.
If your specific application requires the opposite side dipstick to our builds, please let us know so we can discuss your options.
That said, in most cases the dipstick side is not critical and either side will work.
How Will My Engine Arrive?
Your engine will be shipped to you on a wooden pallet completely sealed in an engine bag, wrapped in plastic wrap, and protected with a cardboard case. Inside you’ll also get installation and break in instructions, your build sheet, dyno sheet, stickers and T-shirt.
Do You Ship To The United States?
Unfortunately, due to new EPA requirements, we cannot currently ship to the United States. If the policy changes in the future, we would be happy to!
Do You Ship Internationally?
Unfortunately, due to new EPA requirements, we cannot currently ship Internationally. If the policy changes in the future, we would be happy to!
General Crate Engine Questions
- Engine A makes its peak horsepower at 5200RPM and its peak torque at 3800RPM and
- Engine B makes its peak horsepower at 6200RPM and its peak torque at 4600RPM.
What Exactly Does The Term “Long Block” Mean?
The term “long block” describes an engine that does not have all of the external components included (and required to run.)
Typically a “long block” has a completely assembled including the entire block, heads, and valve train.
A “long block” generally does NOT have: intake manifold, carburetor, distributor, valve covers, oil pan, or anything external of the block and cylinder heads.
The reason some buyers request a “long block” is because they may already have some or all of the required components from a previous engine or they have specific requirements for the external accessories.
What Are "ARP" Bolts / Fasteners And Why Should I Demand Them?
Fact. Your engine is only as strong as the hardware holding it together.
So why would you trust anything other than the best in the industry “ARP” to hold your crate engine together when you don’t have to?
Unlike others, we never build an engine with generic “hardware store” grade 8 bolts or inferior brands to save on costs.
Every Canadian Crate Engine build uses 100% ARP fasteners throughout.
ARP fasteners are money well spent (like insurance.) This will avoid the hassles, inconvenience, frustrations and unnecessary costs of using the cheap, money saving fasteners some other crate engine builders use.
“ARP” stands for Automotive Racing Parts. Their fasteners are made in the USA and ARP is the world leader in fastener technology. Their products and are even superior to what is considered “aircraft quality.”
They have a 220,000 psi tensile strength to handle even the most demanding racing engines. They are heat treated and shot peened for the utmost strength without being too brittle.
So Why Should You Demand Your Crate Engine Use ARP fasteners Throughout?
When your motor is held together by ARP fasteners, you can rest assured you won’t run into common engine problems caused by the cheap components some engine builders use to cut costs.
I’m sure you’ve all heard someone say I “spun a bearing” or “blew the head gasket” or worse yet “it threw a rod.”
These avoidable and expensive repairs are caused by using inferior bolts and fasteners (connecting rod bolts, head bolts, and main bolts) which can’t handle the extreme pressure, torque and heat produced by an engine.
What Is Engine/Manifold Vacuum & Why Should I Care?
Manifold vacuum is the effect of the piston’s movement on the induction stroke and the choked flow through the throttle. In simple terms, it is how much suction (vacuum) that is created when the piston is on the downward stroke of the intake cycle. How much vacuum the engine makes is primarily based on the camshaft specifications, and how much overlap there is between the intake and exhaust lobes.
Why is this important to you?
Engine manifold vacuum is important for many reasons. Engines that make limited manifold vacuum have difficulty powering vacuum accessories, most importantly the vehicle’s braking system. The brake booster depends on manifold vacuum to function efficiently.
Manifold vacuum is also a general guideline as to how the engine will perform at lower engine speeds. Typically an engine that makes 16” of vacuum, compared to an engine that makes 10” of vacuum will have much better “Drivability” in the lower RPM range.
All of the performance engines we build are designed to make as much manifold vacuum as possible. These are street performance engines, not racing engines, and manifold vacuum is a critical part of how your engine will perform.
Understanding Power Delivery, Vehicle Weight and Rear End Gear Ratios
It is critically important to understand all engine power is not created equally if you don’t already.
For example, two completely different engines may make the same peak horsepower/torque (let’s say for example 400HP and 400ftlb/ft torque) but they could make that same amount of power at much different RPM’s.
For example, let’s say…
Although the power numbers appear identical per spec, the power delivery between the two engines is completely different. This will make engine A or B more suitable to your projects specific needs, wants and desires.
In the above example, it takes engine B much longer to make its peak power.
Not only will engine B take longer to make its peak power, but typically an engine which makes its power higher up the RPM range will sacrifice power in the lower in the RPM range.
The ideal scenario for a crate engine is to make as much power low in the RPM range as possible for better drivability and engine response.
This ideal build is achieved by selecting heads, intake manifold, and most importantly the right camshaft which all “play well together” and deliver you the desired quick response and fun lower RPM power without sacrificing higher RPM thrills!
So as you can see, it’s very important you choose a build package that is matched for your vehicle weight, your desired driving style and the rear end gear ratio of your vehicle which we’ll cover shortly.
Whether your engine makes 300hp or 600hp, it will be unavailable to you unless you can get that horsepower to work efficiently for your individual application.
As with our example above, engine B would not be the best engine choice for a heavy vehicle like a truck because a heavier vehicle takes much longer to accelerate due to the weight.
Think of this like starting your car in second gear.
The acceleration will be weak and sluggish until the engine gets into its efficient operating range. The heavier the vehicle, the longer it takes to get the engine into its most efficient operating range or RPM.
The only way to counter act the effects of a heavier vehicle is to increase the rear end gear ratio.
The rear gear ration adds mechanical leverage to assist the vehicle in accelerating more quickly.
A lighter vehicle needs less mechanical leverage (rear end gearing) to get the vehicle up to speed and the engine into its efficient operating range.
The only downside to adding rear end gear ratio is the engine will have to rev higher at highway speeds which can burn more fuel and make driving long distances somewhat less pleasurable due to noise and heat.
We’re here to help you make the best choice for your needs.
When you tell us what vehicle your engine will be going into and your transmission type (auto or manual) and if the gear ration is stock or not, our expert staff will be able to recommend the best options for you.
We’re here to help you make a well informed, and best choice for your crate engine.
Give us a call toll free at: (604) 757-2761
NOTE: Should Ask Questions are important questions you’d be crazy not to ask BEFORE buying your crate engine. They will uncover things some crate engine builders try to hide, or may teach you some things you currently don’t even know you should be asking.
Click here for SAQ’s. Don’t buy uninformed and kick yourself when it’s too late.